Remembrance of Things Past

In the garden -- the bench that always was

Then and Now

 

The bench has stood in the same location for at least thirty years: at a family home, against the back wall of the house, facing the large yard dotted with fruit and nut trees and an expansive vegetable garden.  The chosen resting spot for the matriarchs of the family, it has hosted generations of women engaged in lengthy and leisurely conversations during languid summer days. Topped with a hand-loomed carpet, it is a comfortable seat from which to view the activities of the yard, including the afternoon alfresco dining of many of those sunlit days. 



This is how we do it: an afternoon repast of just-picked raspberries and currants,
garden veggies, eggs from our chickens, fresh cheese and homemade deer-meat salami
served with bread, water and spirits

Always on the menu, seasonal dishes drawing on the bounty of the garden.  For this meal, a family favourite, a matriarch's recipe for kysla fazula or sour bean soup.


On the beanstalk and in the kitchen ready for prepping
 

Kysla Fazulova Polievka

                1  ham hock
                Washed and trimmed green beans cut into 1-inch pieces, yielding 4 cups
                2 bay leaves
                1 tsp salt
                1/2 tsp white pepper
                2 Tbsp unsalted butter
                4 Tbsp flour
                1/2 tsp smoked paprika
                2 cups whole milk or 2 cups sour cream
                1 Tbsp white vinegar plus more for serving
                Freshly chopped dill, optional
               
        Wash ham hock.  Place in stock pot; add water to cover meat by one inch.  Bring to a boil and
        simmer for 40 minutes.  Take pot off stove, remove ham and leave remaining broth in pot.  You
        should have approximately 8 cups of liquid.

        Return pot to stove, add beans and bay leaves, salt and pepper.  Bring to a boil and simmer for
        12-15 minutes until beans are tender. 

        In the meantime, in a small pan melt butter over medium heat.  Combine flour and paprika; add 
        to melted butter, stirring to brown the roux.  When beans are ready, stir roux into soup.  Gently  
        boil, stirring, until roux is incorporated and the soup has thicken somewhat (about 8 minutes). 
        Reduce heat.

        In a small saucepan heat milk until warm.  Add warm milk to soup pot, stirring thoroughly.  (If
        using sour cream, no need to heat; simply stir into soup.)  Add vinegar and continue gently
        stirring soup on medium-low heat to prevent soup from curdling.  As soup heats thoroughly, it
        will thicken and flavours will combined.

        Remove from heat.  Adjust seasoning as needed.  Serve hot soup with additional white vinegar
        on the table.  If desired, top each serving with freshly chopped dill. 



Topped with dill and served with crusty bread and extra vinegar on the side

 Images: D. Sleziak

 

Yippee Aye Eh

Icon of the American west -- the Grand Canyon

I don't run a homestead, nor do I live on a ranch, and I do not reside with a Marlboro man, but when I am looking to feed a hunger crowd in the middle of a deep freeze, and a slow-cooked, stick-to-your-ribs satisfying meal is required, I turn to a woman who is everything I am not: Ree Drummond.  A self-described pioneer woman living on an Oklahoma cattle ranch with her very own Marlboro man, Ree is the author of two cookbooks and the host of a television show on the home network (which, by the way, I've never seen as I don't have cable t.v. either).  Nonetheless, her blog, The Pioneer Woman, is where I found the recipe for "Sunday Night Stew"; a perfect choice, as I was searching for a dish to make on the aforementioned very cold Sunday night, one that would serve a party of six.  Easy and delicious -- my crew expressed their lip-smacking satisfaction throughout the meal -- this recipe has found its way into my repertoire.  

  

                                       Stew with creamy potatoes                                                The veggie mix; just add the beef


If you're require something a little more sophisticated than down-home, Western grub, for a crew that is more inclined to cry their delight with a "Magnifique" rather than "Yippee aye eh," consider the recipe below.  The French take on a beef stew, this Boeuf Bourguignon was a rave hit at a dinner party I hosted, also on a deep and dark winter's night.   Either way, you are sure to please.

Boeuf Bourguignon 

         

          Ingredients:   2 slices bacon, diced

                              3 lb (1.5 kg) stewing beef, cut into 1.5-inch cubes

                              3 Tbsp vegetable oil

                              1 carrot, sliced

                              1 large onion, diced

                              3 cups red wine

                              3 cups or more beef broth

                              1 Tbsp tomato paste

                              4 large garlic cloves, smashed

                              1 bay leaf

                              1/2 tsp dried thyme

                              1 tsp salt

                              1/4 cup plus 3 or 4 Tbsp butter

                              1 lb (500 g) mushrooms

                              Salt and pepper to taste

                              3 or 4 Tbsp flour

 

           

            Un:  Fry bacon in dutch oven over medium heat until browned.  Remove from pan. 
                Reserve.  Dry beef thoroughly with paper towels.  Add 1 tablespoon oil to dutch oven
                and heat until almost smoking.  Brown as many pieces of beef as will fit in one layer,
                without crowding, turning often.  Transfer beef pieces to bowl as they are done.

          Deux:  Skim all but a spoonful of fat out of dutch oven.  Add carrots and onion, stirring and
                     tossing 3 to 4 minutes to brown lightly.  Add to reserved beef. 

          Trois:  Pour 1 cup wine into pan, scraping up brown bits.  Return beef, bacon and vegetables
                    to pan.  Add remaining wine, 3 cups broth, tomato paste and garlic.  Fold in bay leaf,
                    thyme and salt.  If there isn't enough liquid to cover beef, add more broth.

          Quatre:  Place dutch oven over medium-high heat and bring ingredients to a simmer.  Place
                       in preheated 325 F oven and bake 2.5 to 3 hours, turning meat several times. 

          Cinq:  Meanwhile, place 10-inch skillet over high heat.  Add 2 tablespoons butter and
                    1 tablespoon oil.  When foam begins to subside, add half of mushrooms.  Toss,
                    shaking pan, 4 to 5 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper.  Repeat with 2 tablespoons
                    butter, 1 tablespoon oil, remaining mushrooms, salt and pepper.  Reserve.

          Six:  When beef is fork-tender, pour contents of dutch oven into colander set over saucepan.
                  Remove bay leaf.  Return beef mixture to dutch oven.  Distribute mushrooms over beef.

          Sept:  Skim fat from broth in saucepan.  Simmer sauce 1 to 2 minutes to reduce.  In a small
                   bowl, combine 3 tablespoons each butter and flour.  Remove sauce from heat.  Whisk
                   in butter paste; return sauce to heat and bring to boil.  Sauce should thicken enough to
                   lightly coat spoon.  If too thin, repeat with another tablespoon of butter mixed with a
                   tablespoon of flour.

          Huit:  Pour over beef mixture.  Cover dutch oven and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, basting
                   ingredients several times with sauce. 

                    Makes 6 to 8 servings.
 

       

Photos D. Sleziak

Boeuf Bourguignon recipe

via Sleziak family archives; roots unknown

 

Inside Out

The view from the kitchen window

As the garden transforms from green to gold and beyond, the kitchen keeps pace matching hue for hue, delight for delight.

Outside, as this little beauty cast off her chartreuse green hue of summer for a pale copper shade of autumn,...

inside these darlings traded their pungent sharpness for a slow-roasted mellowness in Todd English's take on creamed onions -- Six-Onion Roast with Goat Cheese and Walnut Crema.



Outside, as this tree sang with the most dazzling yellow leaves, inside this spaghetti squash soared with the bright taste of lemon and the nutty flavour of Parmigiano-Reggiano in a Shrimp and Squash symphony.

 

Outside, while the cool nights coaxed the intense vividness of this flaming burning bush, inside the red richness of these jewels added depth and zing to Cranberry Crumble Muffins.

Outside, as these crisp orange-brown leaves struck a pose against the brilliance of the bright blue sky, inside the creamy texture of pumpkin lent a satisfyingly smooth denseness to Fudge Brownies.

Outside, while these red-orange leaves danced in the clear afternoon light, inside this tureen of vegetables was whirled into the full-flavoured silkiness of Pureed Cauliflower Soup with a touch of Sharp Cheddar cheese.

Outside, while the trees and branches now all lay bare,...



inside our bellies purr with pure satiated delight.

Photos D. Sleziak

A Summer Almanac

The countryside in early July, Prince Edward County

Summer's Bounty

"In summer, the song sings itself." 

                                                                     -- William Carlos Williams

Living in southern Canada means enjoying all four seasons to their fullest.  Summer is filled with long warm days and -- at the best times -- beautifully balmy sunsets and nights.  We also experience great rolling thunder storms, many hours of daylight, and periods of downright hot temperatures.  All this leads to a region with a long growing season; home gardens and farmers' stands abound with produce: berries, stone fruits, melons, root vegetables, squashes, herbs and a plethora of other vegetables, including maize, tomatoes, peppers and green beans.  Such a bounty makes for easy summer eating and entertaining.



Pickled produce preserve the bounty

Farmer's stand in late summer

 In the Kitchen

Just picked from the garden -- organically grown tomatoes

Fresh summer salads are a staple.  A bumper crop of tomatoes means this salad extends easily into September.



Summer salad



Tomato Salad 

         Dressing:  1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
                          2 garlic cloves, minced
                          1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
                          freshly ground black pepper
                          sea salt
                          1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

                          Whisk together first five ingredients in a bowl.  Continue whisking while pouring
                          the oil in a slow, steady stream until oil is emulsified and ingredients are well
                          combined.  Alternatively, place all ingredients in a jar, close lid tightly and shake       
                          vigorously until well blended.

         Ingredients: 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
                            1/3 cup diced red onion
                            1/3 cup dry feta cheese
                            8 fresh basil leaves, washed, dried and sliced into ribbons
        
         Salad:  Place tomatoes, onion, feta cheese and basil in a bowl.  Top with 3 Tbsps. of    
                    dressing and gently combined.  Serves 4.




Roasted Green Beans in Three Easy Steps:

       Step 1: Wash and trim green beans.
 

         Step 2:  Place beans on pan lined with parchment paper.  Scatter with sliced shallots. 

                     Drizzle with oil olive, and season with minced garlic, cracked black pepper and
                     sea salt.  Roast in a 450 degree F oven for 15-20 minutes, tossing occasionally.
 

       Step 3: Serve warm.

Easy Party Starter:

Three-ingredient simplicity and delicious taste made this hors d'oeuvre a favourite starter. 

         The How-To:  Cut small baguette into 1/4-inch thick slices.  Arrange slices on rimmed baking
                              sheet.  Top with herb goat cheese; drizzle with olive oil.  Bake in 350 degree 
                              oven for 15-20 minutes.  Top with pesto.  Serve warm.



Goat cheese pesto crisps

Photos: D. Sleziak

Recipes: Tomato Salad, D. Sleziak

Roasted Green Beans adapted from Molly Stevens's All About Roasting
Goat Cheese Crisps, M. Stewart