Taking the Waters

A beautiful tile mosaic decorates a pavilion at the spa in Sliac, Slovakia



If you ever find yourself in a place with a name like Therme Vals (Switzerland), Chaudfontaine (Belgium), Bains de Dorres (France), or Wiesbaden (Germany), be sure to take full advantage of all these spa towns have to offer and "take the waters."    From Britain -- think Bath, England, once a holiday stop for Roman soldiers assigned to the far reaches of the empire -- to Greece and all spots in between, Europe abounds with natural springs heated by the earth alone.  These mineral-rich thermal waters are tapped for rehabilitation purposes and aid in the treatment of rheumatoid arthritis and a wide variety of other illnesses, including circulatory, digestive and skin aliments.  Enjoyed since ancient times, they are also popular for relaxation and recreation.  Soaking pools, mud baths, steam rooms and saunas, massages and wraps are some of the options that can help soothe your muscles, reduce your stress and improve your health.  For a sampling of one such site, come along on a journey to a spa in the town of Sliac, where, although you are not in Rome, you can still do as the Romans did and take the waters.

  

To Start, Let's Walk 

 

Essential to the spa experience and treatment -- daily strolls. 
Under century-old trees, benches positioned along the main promenade
encourage one to linger in the dappled sunlight

 

The main tree-lined path leads to cobble-stoned walkways

that eventually take one to footpaths that wend through

the forest.  

 

 The entire property sits high in the hills above

town, and guests can indulge in walks that range from

a few hundred metres to several kilometres.

 

 

The park-like setting outside your door

 includes mature trees and groomed yards,...

 large-scale plantings...

 

fountain courtyards, and...

 

groovy benches. 

 

Everywhere you hear the pleasant sound

of flowing water from the natural

springs running underground.

 

 



The source: numerous springs are accessible
on the 42-hectare property.  This one offers the warmest
water for drinking.  Effervescent on the tongue with a hint of
the minerals it contains, it is the best water you'll ever taste.
The water constantly flows, and guests stroll the property
with glass in hand, sampling the various waters.

 Each spring has its own identification marker.

 



 

Another fountain, another design.  This one

is popular with locals from town who hike

or ride up the hill to fill numerous bottles

for personal consumption.

The stains on the fountain speak to
the high mineral content of the water.

 

 

Let's Stay

 

Accommodations vary: Here is the grand staircase the links

the upper promenade with the lower level gardens and cafe.

To the left is the main reception area, the Palace Hotel,

and a popular indoor/outdoor cafe; to the right,

one finds the dining halls, shops and an incredible banquet facility

completely intact with original decor including banquettes,

a bandstand, dance floor, chandeliers, and etched

glass murals.  A closeup of one is pictured below. 

 

 

Influenced by the Russian futurist style of the 1920s,

this main building features wide terraces and 

marble floors.  During the evening, this space

transforms into a dance floor with live nightly entertainment.

 

Every detail is in keeping with

the modern, clean aesthetic, even the trash bins!

 

Inside one finds old-world glamour.  For instance,

women can retire to a suite of rooms that

houses facilities to iron or make small repairs

to one's clothing, a powder room and sitting room,

and water closets.  It is grand.

 

 

 Another choice of hotel, the Polana, is a Victorian-era

structure.  With a marble staircase, fourteen-foot

ceilings and spacious suites, it has a slight air of

elegant decay.  Notice the exquisite grill-work of the balcony.

A view from within.

 

 

Let's Relax

 

For serious spa treatments, book a session here at the Kupelny

Dom, or Bathing House. 

Up these stairs...

and through these doors you'll have access to

this hallway.

Private rooms for individual treatments are

behind each door.  Whirlpool baths and

deep tissue massages are popular.

You can consult with a physician who will

develop a treatment plan for you in this

sanatorium-like setting.

 

For simple relaxation, consider a 45-minute

session in a 36-degree mineral-fed

soaking pool followed by a body wrap. 

 

If you prefer more active recreation, try the

spring-fed swimming pool.  The dark opaque

colour is the result of the high iron content in the water.

Frequented by families on holiday, it provides cabanas

for changing, an outdoor cafe and lots of space for lounging.

 

Across the way, the clay tennis courts, here begin prepped

for play in the early morning.

 Afterwards, consider sipping tea on the terrace before

heading off to treatment in the Salt Cave.

 

Finally, end your visit with a memento of your 

holiday -- a picture-perfect postcard:  

Sliac Spa, established 1244

 

 

 

 

 

Images D. Sleziak

Summer Lovin'

Early dusk: the sun setting on a sensational summer's day

The Best of Summer

On a ferry, crossing a lake that is more like a sea...

Sun and sea

to arrive at the island for a day of sailing, cycling and grilling.


Island harbour

At the local bakery

Yum: grilled Mexican corn-on-the-cob; recipe via Here

Whatever your plans, hope you enjoy a restful long weekend.


Setting sail for autumn as summer unofficially ends

 

 

 

 

 

Images D. Sleziak

Remembrance of Things Past

In the garden -- the bench that always was

Then and Now

 

The bench has stood in the same location for at least thirty years: at a family home, against the back wall of the house, facing the large yard dotted with fruit and nut trees and an expansive vegetable garden.  The chosen resting spot for the matriarchs of the family, it has hosted generations of women engaged in lengthy and leisurely conversations during languid summer days. Topped with a hand-loomed carpet, it is a comfortable seat from which to view the activities of the yard, including the afternoon alfresco dining of many of those sunlit days. 



This is how we do it: an afternoon repast of just-picked raspberries and currants,
garden veggies, eggs from our chickens, fresh cheese and homemade deer-meat salami
served with bread, water and spirits

Always on the menu, seasonal dishes drawing on the bounty of the garden.  For this meal, a family favourite, a matriarch's recipe for kysla fazula or sour bean soup.


On the beanstalk and in the kitchen ready for prepping
 

Kysla Fazulova Polievka

                1  ham hock
                Washed and trimmed green beans cut into 1-inch pieces, yielding 4 cups
                2 bay leaves
                1 tsp salt
                1/2 tsp white pepper
                2 Tbsp unsalted butter
                4 Tbsp flour
                1/2 tsp smoked paprika
                2 cups whole milk or 2 cups sour cream
                1 Tbsp white vinegar plus more for serving
                Freshly chopped dill, optional
               
        Wash ham hock.  Place in stock pot; add water to cover meat by one inch.  Bring to a boil and
        simmer for 40 minutes.  Take pot off stove, remove ham and leave remaining broth in pot.  You
        should have approximately 8 cups of liquid.

        Return pot to stove, add beans and bay leaves, salt and pepper.  Bring to a boil and simmer for
        12-15 minutes until beans are tender. 

        In the meantime, in a small pan melt butter over medium heat.  Combine flour and paprika; add 
        to melted butter, stirring to brown the roux.  When beans are ready, stir roux into soup.  Gently  
        boil, stirring, until roux is incorporated and the soup has thicken somewhat (about 8 minutes). 
        Reduce heat.

        In a small saucepan heat milk until warm.  Add warm milk to soup pot, stirring thoroughly.  (If
        using sour cream, no need to heat; simply stir into soup.)  Add vinegar and continue gently
        stirring soup on medium-low heat to prevent soup from curdling.  As soup heats thoroughly, it
        will thicken and flavours will combined.

        Remove from heat.  Adjust seasoning as needed.  Serve hot soup with additional white vinegar
        on the table.  If desired, top each serving with freshly chopped dill. 



Topped with dill and served with crusty bread and extra vinegar on the side

 Images: D. Sleziak